25-6-2016 – 26-5-2016 X1 running like crap.. only full trottle, no idle

26-5-2016 X1 running like crap.. only full trottle, no idle

 

nice X1 low milage, but running like crap

ok first to check setting from the ecm.. but i need to free the diagnostics plug first

so fairing needs to come off , starting with the mirrors

the lower front bolts and side bolts

and front off

tank cover off and lifting the tank a litle

would not even idle at 11 deg.. tps

and i heasr it running on 1.5 cylinder front one douse not really wants to go

rear one is better

shees who mounted this should get a kick. airfilter back plate running the frame

and they left the intake support bracket off… i don’t even need to check for intake seals.. they will be gone the whole intake assembly + air filter holded up only by the intake seals… no wonder it runs bad

and i will gove the injector wires a little more wiggle room so the terminals would not be the trafel limiters on the cable

the manifold bolts where alsmost hand tight

throttle cable safety lock , check if this is there to hold the cables secure

throttle body out

big vacuum bite marks on the seals

and i will check the injectors , as these go bad more often , better to check and clean now

injectors in the tester

flow and spray pattern are perfect.

will clean theme anyway… just better

throttle body cleaned

mount the security bracket back on

before you tighten the flanges aline the throttle body with the front support bracket

little hydrolic loctite on the breather bolts

and spacer ring is added to give clearance to the frame

better like this

the black plastic velocity ring was used as some sort off spacer… it needs to go here , works better like this

fuel line back on

tps set, and she is purring again

oil change … draining take take a while

so wile the bike is draining oil , i put back the covers and fairing

neath looking bike

oil filter replacement.. a long one was put on.. with the oilcooler adaptor not a smart move, to much weight and momentum on the adaptor , i will put a normal size one on

if your oil filter socket is slipping a piece off clotch can help

normal size oil filter back on

and oil back ot level

for tube frame model keep the level halfway to 3
/4 , if you fill here up to max, it will blow out the breathers … test ride

 

25-5-2016 xb engine strip, quicky, M2 get’r going , xb not running fuel pomp

28-6-2016 – 25-5-2016 xb engine strip, quicky, M2 get’r going , xb not running fuel pomp

machine shop is freaking buzy so asked me to strip a engine that was brought in, speeds up the process , no problem…striping is easy

rocker covers off

and loosen all the rocker box screws loose first the small ones

loosen the big ones evenly

rocker box off and pushrods out

work smarter not harder , head bolts can be tight , use a long wrench

heads off … engine done little km after it was overhauld ? ( engine bearings are screaming again after a year )

carbon deposit in the bore , well that is not from a few km

some markings are in the bore visible

looks like the just put in new pistons and gave it a clean up hone

flat screw driver and hold theme tight so they don’t fly off

off course you can hammer theme out , pulling is better with a pulling tool so the big end bearings don’t get loaded

to much play here, noticeble

pistons and rings look like new

so splitting the case, timing pick up off

and camcover off

the cam train

shees oil pomp gear is almost gone… why they didn’t replace this one

and slipping wrench marks on the nut

i will put a new one on the list for this one

just checking…oil pomp

large part is return,small part feed / pressure

some markings , but nothing serieus

positionpins out for the lifters

will ad these to to the list, noticeble surface wear

so other side to get to the case bolts

mnn engine has had its problems cover is welded

primairy off m shifter lever off

spacer rings / oil drip feed ring to the mainshaft bearings

and case bolts out

tap the cases to break the sealent , tap… not hammer

and you can split the cases… running marks in the right side race … i think this is the one making noise again

shift fork sliders tapping out the case with a drift

press the gear box out main shaft looks good

put some zipties on the loose rings and spacers

seal ring out , came on the 04 model engines

and crank out , checking the inner rae

also some wear marks mnnn . now cleaning and off to the machine shop to measure and replae the bearings and check the cylinders

m2 after a long time…

really stored wrong .. first to see if we can make here run again

buell Xb12S … douse run, 2 3 seconds after start , and dies… sounds like fuel pump ?

oil light douse not work… i think it will come back on, bike has been standing still way to long

so airbox off

fuel line off to check pressure

the gas smels stale

priming… this is all she got …

and pressure drops right away… leak in the fuel pomp

as the fuel pomp still works… we pump the fuel out

rear wheel needs to come out

and support the bike

swing arm pivot loose

and take the swingarm axle out

fuel pomp connector off

and remove the fuel line

loosent he screws , and use 1 to use as lever point to get the fuel pump out

there is always a little fuel left here , with the swing arm loose to the side you can pul out the fuel pump

the problem, seals from the inline filter to the regulator are leaking

and the prefilter is gone…

c-clip off

and pull off the regulator

left over from the prefilter

i will protect the wires right away i see already some rubbing

the seals , will replace bought sides

new seals on the filter

and press the pump to getter again

wire protection on

and new o-rings on the pump housing

fuel pump back in

swingarm and wheel back in

and we have fuel pressure

 

 

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20&aid=905

18-5-2016 1125 engine cam timing and valve adjustment , monster big bore start ? rebuild, 1125 fuel pomp

 

1125r engine rebuild by customer, send in to us with the requist to check the cam timing and valve play…

with the engine out , works better on a stand and a little height to mount the crank lock tool

so valve covers off

ignition cover plug out so we can turn the engine over

needed special tools, crank lock tool ( also used for positioning ) and cam lock tool

bottom plug out for the crank lock tool

this one can leak a little oil

plugs out

and turning the engine over anti clock wise front cylinder cams about like this

and you can see the piston in tdc

so if your about in TDC, screw in the crank lock tool moveing the crank a little to ensure your in tthe notch in the crank, and crew the lock tool in deeper

loosen the cam drive bolts , chain tensioner plug half way out to give a little slack to see if the markings on bought the cam gears line up

no place the cam lock tool over the intake cam to position the cam train

and the drive gear back on and fresh loctite on the bolts

retighten the chain adjuster plug and tighten the cam bolt to 30 Nm

lock tools out, and rotate the cams so the lobes are maximun up and check the valve play between the finger and the shim

these where a little tight , so messure the free play and note this down. to get to the shims you need ot remove the finger lock ( front and rear are different ) big flat screw driver and a tap it will come off the finger shaft , you get a little handy in it after so many 😉 the frist ones i did break , as there hard plastic , could be handy to order some as spare if you need to do this job

finger slide to the side , and with a magnet on a stick you can pull out the adjuster shim

taking notes , measure the shim and calculate back to the free play you want , and put in a shim with the correct size

free play adjusted, rotate the engine 1 turn to set the shims and re-mesure , if correct put the finger lock back in place

and do so the same for the intakes

little startup lube for what it is wurth ready to close this cover

rear one same story , rotate the engine untill the cams are like this your near tdc , check piston throught the sparkplug hole

and locate the rear TDC on the crank with the crank lock tool

chain adjuster a little loose to give the chain a little slack to take the drive cam off

checking the cams are alined .. check ( normaly i would not do this , but in this case better check than be sorry )

can lock tool over the intake cam

and put the cam drive gear back

we don’t need the lock tools anymore, so case plug back in… use new crush washers !

checking valve play

the finger locks are different intake or exhaust cam side

again finger slide to the side to get to the shim for adjustment

needed to adjust the 2 intakes on the rear cylinder , finger lock tool back in

these finger locks are hold down against rotating with the cover gaskets / valve cover

covers on , ensured the middle splug hole gasket is in there.. and plugs back in… ready to be shipped back

monster bog bore.. assembly , cylinders are overhault after striping on the nicasil

yep, not for sissies

nice big pistons

and cylinders look very nice

only… really.. wrong piston rings put in the set … dhammed

am i wrong ? so check the others … nope really not the correct rings… these little thing really don’t help my planning , check the pistons and gaskeots if they where correct when they came in and size on the piston ring box was correct.. never came to mind to check the actual rings in the box… ok for next time

1125 fuel problems… measured everything but comes down to broke fuel pomp

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20&aid=902

 

29-4-2016 XB12XT 09 service , XB fuel pomp

29-4-2016 XB12XT 09 service , XB fuel pomp

Source: TWIN Motorcycles

29-4-2016 XB12XT 09 service , XB fuel pomp

7-6-2016 – 29-4-2016 XB12XT 09 service , XB fuel pomp

very nice Uly Xt in for service

while the oil is draining, removing the covers for rear wheel out and belt check

and while the oil is draining, you can do the front spark plug

set the gap on the new plugs to 0,9 mm and a little neverseas on the threads

fresh gearbox oil in

and remount the clutch mechanisme, adjust just toughing and 1/4 turn loose

rear brake caliper off for wheel removal , select 5e gear, bike lifted a little so you can bump the engine around to check the primairy chain tension

this one needed some adjusting , adjust the tension on the tightes spot on the chain , check this at 3 points on the chain

and check iff all the shifter hardware is still solid

these screws can come out…

breaker bar needed to loosen the rear axle

i will replace these bearings, as they are getting chrunchy when you turn theme

belt check , still good to go

fil the swing arm with fresh oil

and rear wheel back on, with fresh rubber and bearings , cleaned the axle and relubricated it

with the wheel in and belt tension still off, put the inner belt protector back on

and tighten the rear axle.. so nice to turn with a cleaned and lubricated axle

covers back on, use loctite on the chin spoiler screws

moving up on the bike, airbox off to replace the rear plug

long extention and wobble joint to get to the rear plug

again, check the gap.. out off the box most plugs have a to small gap

spark plug cable check.. i like to pull the the booth over the cable so i can better feel the connectot locking over the plug, slide the booth over the plug when your done

time for the front end.. bike swapped arount on the lift

front end out, for oil change, note the position off the left , so you can put theme back the same way , you will not believe what 1 mm change here will do 🙂

looks like this is the first time out… still factory locktite bond…

clean up the lower legs, as you will colaps theme completely , the dirst will ruwn the seals

nice and nver tought cap nuts.. protect these with some isolation tape before you loosen theme with a socket , please don’t use spanners.. they slip off way to easy , marring the aluminium

fresh oil in, and forks back in, pushing the bike in, preforming a brake test, i could here the steering head knack , sign for me to retighten the steering head , so i will the lower fork clamps loose

loosen the steeringhead pich bolt

handle bar needs to come off to get to the steering head nut, marking the bar / clamp , so when the connection comes loose i can easy set it back the way it was

retighened the steering stem nut, lower triple t clamps can be tighened

wheel back in, with also fresh tyre

brake caliper bolt to TQ with loctire

customer also asked to set the suspention, easy.. and my plesure , nothing more important than a nice steering bike

changing the brake fuild front

and rear…. time to test ride 🙂 and rub in the new tyres… i love my job

Xb fuel pump, taking it out to check it

rear schock lower bolt loose and the swing arm needs to get out the way a little , bike is supended

connector off

loosend the swingarm axle pich bolt

and loosend the swingarm , it just needs a little more room to get the pomp out

and the fuel line off, unsrewing the 4 bolts

twisting and turning, and pump out

the little fuel that was left , looks realy full off debris ?

the pump it self looks good, rubbing protection was already added in the factory , and the pressure seals look ok..

so with some new o-rings and rubber grease the pomp back in

connectiong back on

swing arm in, this can he a hassle , as you poking the axle in a blind hole , line out the swing arm to the engine looking through the hole and center it be fore you put the axle in helps

stack back in

and starting up.. runs nice … need to test ride

 

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20&aid=896

12-6-2016 – 11-5-2016 1125CR TLC

11-5-2016 1125CR TLC

Source: TWIN Motorcycles

 

12-6-2016 – 11-5-2016 1125CR TLC

very nice 1125CR in for big service and fix charging system

so first strip here a little, airbox off

and checking the stator to ground, still good

but AC stator out put is 1,5 volts over one pair.. mnnn

a other pair still makes 3,3 volts… should be about 20 Volts AC at idle i pretty much know for sure the stator is fried

so first the fairing off, start with the right upper cover

and swing the left + bottom piece off the bike

oil drain

and start the rotor , timing sensor out

stator plug the connector off

and take the cover screws off , there is 1 with a copper washer.. put this back the same place

mnnn crispy , good for allot off things , stator not so good

we do the oil jet upgrade right away, so the over heating problem is fixed , rotor off

remove the stator from the cover , the 3 screws and remove the wire protection plate

yep… crispy as fries

while we are here, replaced the oil filter to close up this side

new stator in… place alittle silicone in the rubber to help is seal

and use loctite on the stator screws.. we noticed some trouble in cases these screws came loose !!

cleaning the sprag clutch mounting ring and bolts so the new loctite will have clean surface

little assembly lube in the sprag one way bearing , for the difficult first moment with out oil pressure

oiljet poort on the double spline, made bigger to line up with the crank feed

and the busniss end off the oil jet, tiny hole enough to cool the stator by misting cooler engine oil over the stator, but not to large to loose oil pressure high rpm

sprag bearing ring on first, and line it up with the rotor holes

and tq the bolts and nit to tq .. redloctite , assembly lube on the balance gear and starter motor reduction gear shaft

with a new gasket and a little bead off silicone on the plug rubber to help seal, cover is mounted back

so on with the service, rear axle pinch bolt 10mm allen

and take the rear caliper off to remove the wheel

mnnn bearings are way to tight.. i will put new ones in , these will not last long like this

new bearings… and on request customer fat tyre 🙂( 190 ) will look badass on this bike

time to rotate the engine, i turn the bike on the lift so i have more working space

front wheel out… bearing check.. ok these are done.. will replace these to

front forks out to service the oil and easy acces to the engine when rotated

loosening the wire loom so rotating the engine will not pull these wires apart , horn wires

on the 09-10 models unplug the rear O2 sensor plug , rotating the engine will pull the connector off .. better to unplug

side pods loose , and clutch master loose to give the clutch line some slack

and with the engine supported remove the middle engine bolts

loosen the rear engine bolts a little

and loosen the pich bolts on the engine mount sliders , and slide the sliders a little out so the can not catch anything

and take out the 2 front k-bracket bolt to the frame

a little light sticked to my front support to see in the dark

engine down and front cam cover removed, check the cams on pitting

the valve play is good for the next 20000 km

remove the spark plug

and fresh one in gapped and little neverseas on the threads

cover back on.. check the middle cover seal is still in position

stick coil back in , and connector injector and coil back on. confirm the coil connector locks if not sure lock the tab with a ziptie !! seen these come loose while putting in the intake airducts

rear same story.. good untill next service

and hooking up the connectors again

little something we now do with every big service, check ecm grounds for corrosion , as this one is impossible to reach when the engine is up.. and we see some times corrosion here can give fuel pressure errors , this one was clean

engine back up and start the left side engine bolts in

the k-bracket holes to the frame usualy not line up again , so loosen the side bolts and start the threads on the front bolts

every bolt in, start tightening the left side first , than the right side witht he silders

before you put the pods back on, route the wires and ziptie these to the k-bracket

front forks, with fresh oil and wheel with fresh bearings ready to go in

testing… yep the bike is charging again

the hd wire harness mod is still in… i think i leave this in this case as the S tail section needs a longer cable to the regulator

but i will lock the throttle plate shafts to getter

 

 

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20&aid=898

TWIN Motorcycles

30-4-2016 nice X1, XB exhaust + tail, XB9R expencive O-ring

Source: TWIN Motorcycles

 

7-6-2016 – 30-4-2016 nice X1, XB exhaust + tail, XB9R expencive O-ring

early morning, just a little health check… runs like a champ, nice X1

Xb12Stt from belgium , for exhaust and tail section

will first take off the old tail , 4 screw to the side out

and loosen the 2 screws in the undertray

after disconnecting the wires , the old stock tail come off

disasembly off the old tail i needed to smile, beer coaster used for any rattle filler, nice beer Jupiler

indicators over, special nuts come in very handy as the space is tight , and it is easy to mount this first before you put on the short tail

big right side airscoop on , the inner piece

and the outer piece, use a litle neverseas on these screws

removeving the old stock exhaust, rear straps loose

and front hanger loose, taking off the exhaust valve cable

as a chinspoiler bracket needs to be mounted , i remove the side stand , noticed one bolt was already loose , use loctite when you put this back on

exhaust on, and updated the tuning… test ride

Xb9r started to leak oil , after a few 100 km after rebuild , customer asked if we could take care off this , looking at it looks like the pushrod o-ring is pinched

so making ready for engine rotation, exhaust off

belt idler off

v-brace loose and left foot peg plate off

and engine supported , remove the front engine bolt

making the top side ready for rotation…

thank god only the 03 models came with this intake stack… really is a crappy construction

everything loos , ready to drop the engine

headers off as we need to take the rear cylinder head off

removing the intake manifold , using a cut off 1/4 allen key works perfect to use force to loosen the bolts

and box spanners on the right side

remove the top engine support bolts

and remove the coil bracket

now you can remove the rear rocker cover

mnnnn was pure luck this gasket was not leaking..

loosen all the rocker box bolts evenly

and a little napkin on the rear, as this will be dripping some oil after you remove the rocker box

pushrods out

and loosen the head bolts , this can take a little force , i noticed the 2 short bolts needed way less force to loosen ?

and the rear head off, pinched expensive o-ring

? looks like they reused the dowl o-rings when this guy rebuild the engine? i think old hd mechanic .. these o-ring are hardly used anymore, and really should not been used with this brand and model head gasket

you see the o- ring has been crushed and smeared to the gasket

normaly i would re use this gasket, only done a few 100 km but with the o-ring crushed on it , i will take new ones.. i think this was also the cause the short ( left side ) head bolts where a little loose

nothing to say, been there done that… you make this mistake ones… it is all in the way you mount theme

new o-rings first in the head

head gaskete on

than first push the cylinder head over rocker cover so you see the o-rings go in with out damage , than located the cylinder head dowls

head bolts, drop off oil on the threads and the flats

and tighten to specifications

if you can not see the markings on the pushrods, note they have a different lenght , exhaust is longer

rocker box back on, as there are no locating pins.. start all the bolts before you start tightening

start witht he 4 big bolts , gently tighten so the rocker box stays level and the tappeds have time to bleed

these gaskets can be a pain.. a drop off silicone gasket can help to hold it in place and rocker cover back on

engine mount bolt back in , use loctite , coil bracket on center this one, as it doubles as manifold support

headers back on…. nuts rear can be a hassle to put theme back on… i find using my finger the best methode

our flanges where fitted, i will put new o-rings in

little cleaning , new o-rings and mounting grease to protect the o-rings during mounting

flanges pushed on, the manifold, and put the thin o-rings in place , some mounting grease will hold theme

manifold back on

manifold back on

engine back up

exhaust back under

and connecting the top side..

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20&aid=897

 

 

6-6-2016 – 22-4-2016 1125CR check up finish , XB holiday check

6-6-2016 – 22-4-2016 1125CR check up finish , XB holiday check

the fork oil in the 1125 looks like it is in a long time

dust seals off and seal holder clip out

1125 legs are easy… with the top cap off you can just pull out the lower leg , and remove the oil seal

look in side , the middle guide bushings.. non replaceble , this it the one that can click a little when you lightly push down the front , as some tolerance need to be in to fit this bushing in the factory

new seal in and clip in, slide the lower leg back in and dust seal.. and full with oil

bought legs back in

using the front leg as a mounting stand to replace the brake pads ( loosen the pad pins )

new pads in

and wheel back in

i did not tighten the lower triples clamps yet as i felt a steering head knock pushing and braking the bike , i will retighten the steering head , loosen the pinch bolt

remove the handle bar clamp, loosen and retighten the stem nut

fancy alu bolts.. use a little bolt lube when you mount these

so on with the next job.. rotor upgrade to oil jetted one , oil line taken out off the oil cooler

ignition timing sensor out

cover off and , bolts and nut off

clean uo the sprag housing threads, and clean off the old loctite from the bolts

before you put the starter clutch bock on, prelube this one

as the fitting is very tight it works easier to first put the starter clutch back on the crank , and than the rotor

many questions… you guys send back my old one, where are the oil jet holes ? whell that tiny spec in the radius is the jet out let , need to be tiny to keep oil pressure high rpms , and large enough to make a cooling oil spray over the stator

line up the starter clutch holes with the rotor

and put the bolts and nuts back on.. with loctite !!

nuts an bolt to TQ specs

cleaned the gasket surface , and put a little dab off silicone on the rubber wire inlet

cover back on take care off the wires not getting pinched

slowly getting bac to the top side off the bike , the front brake feels like i’m having
osteoarthritis in my hands

a little cleaning and relubeing make all the differance

so the wire mess , hd wire harness “upgrade” was mounted, but the connector that switched the relais was not connected ?

i wil take the hd mod wire harness out.. looks like it done for aswell ( the stator is still ok )

wire harness out

original connections made, the added steering connector wire can be left unplugged

startup… nice .. charging healty

left it to iddle so the fans will kick in. still keeping a charge … ok

oil level check… was recently changed , mnnn i will take some oil out, level is to high and will spit out the breather to much

checking the rear wheel … missing the axle pich bolt

and i needed to use some negotiating skills to loose the rear axle

with the bolt tension off i can remvoe the idler pulley

defenaly has been jammed / stopped by something ( stone ? )

use idler wheel mounted, i still had one… bearing are good, parts are flying out the door at the moment , hard to keep stock … but we are working hard on that … thanks guys !!

new bolt pinch bolt back on

and pully cover for some better protection… now test ride .. still a trilling bike to ride..

XB summer check up

and oil change… filter is pressurized , when the bike is hot you hear it pop, and make a splatter , i will clean the exhaust

primary chain check

and making some easy mounts luggage rack

x1 little health check.. bike is running rough.. tps was way to low , i reset this , now first the exhaust gaskets needs to be fixed ( front one i leaking ) but it did run nice already,.. but like a hit and miss engine through the leaking exhaust port gasket

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20&aid=894

 

TWIN Motorcycles

20-4-2016 Buell Xb intake flanges, tyre swap Uly

Source: TWIN Motorcycles

 

20-4-2016 Buell Xb intake flanges, tyre swap Uly

31-5-2016 – 20-4-2016 Buell Xb intake flanges, tyre swap Uly

nice XB9 in to fix the intake leak, customer wanted our upgrade flanges right away.

so striping the covers and making ready for engine rotation

on the Firebolt and lightning models remove the left foot peg bracket as this will hit the primairy cover

remove the 3 bolts holding the v-brace

and loose the clutch cable and unhook this from the lever

see if this works, and can get the engine rotated enough to work on

with the engine supported, unscrew the front bolt… nice and rusty… will clean this up

lowers ready.. moving on to the top side , airbox off

and disconnect the fuel line, throttle cables and coil connector

out off the way

loosen the throttle cables in the grip ( take theme out )

and remove the top engine support bolt

i could not get enough clearance , so needed to remove the exhaust

repostioned the jack, and roteted the engine down.. the injector connectors and tps sensor connector are easy to remove from below

loosen the bolts off the flanges and the manifold holding screw in the middle

right side allen key, to loosen a cut off 1/4 allen key works very good to break the innitional bond

when these allen bolts are loose i switch over to a ball end but and wobblely extentions ( you can not put much force on these, as the ball end will slip in the head )

and take the manifold out

leaky seals

clean up the mating surface on the cylinder heads

and inspect and clean the intake runners

check the new flanges if they fit good over the runners , also check if the runners are not oval ( the flange hole is perfecly round

check if the milled surface on the heads is made large enough so the flange will fit flat, in some cases the radius on the head will prevent the flange from mounting flat , as our flanges are bigger and stronger , if the radius on the head is interfearing , round off the flanges a litle so they will fit flat

aply the moutning grease on the o-ring to make theme stick ont he flanges and protect during mounting

and place the manifold with the flanges back. it is easier to put the left side bolts in later ( the sliding hole )

nice and center on the side support off the manifolt , and tighen the flanges

reconnect the injectors green = rear, white = front

engine back up, check if no sensors are caught under the frame, front bolt cleaned and lubed

front mounting bolt tq down to 66 Nm

and tighen the v-brace bolts again

clutch cable hooked in and readjust the free play

leaking exhaust connections… easy fix

clean and aply a little exhaust mounting paste

look and see… old model side stand pivot … i can’t help my self to try theme if there still tight .. this one was not

so pivot off clean and 272 loctite on it 🙂 will take a while before this one works it self loose again

exhaust spring puller very usefull to mount the side stand spring back

top side reconnect … fixated the tps sensor wire to the fuel rail , so the connections going in the sensor will not vibrate

airbox base back on… wiggle the base plate between the slots on the velocity stack

translucent body work… us the spacers !!!! and foam washers to keep it nice.. handle with care

off course test your work.. and test ride

Uly time, tyre change

lower belt cover off

and axle loose and out ( remove the brake caliper + bracket )

bearings still feel good. but the are loose in the wheel 😦 for now i glue theme in with metal glue, but long time solution will be a new wheel

nice and fresh rear tyre

bike swapped around… MX fork seal protection… nice

front supported, and pinch bolts and brake caliper bolts loose

axle out, it binded a little .. will clean and relube

wheel back on, set to tq

push down the front suspension a few times to set the front end , and tighten the pinch bolts

 

 

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20&aid=891